Restaurant Reviews

VinCaffè's contemporary first floor dining space oozes more style than a Milanese catwalk. That said, there's nothing prima donna-esque about the latest venture from Valvona & Crolla, the darlings of the Scottish deli scene, and the mellow vibe appeals both to greying gourmets and well-heeled young trendy-somethings.

Although images of film stars adorn one wall (via a projector screening subtitled 1950s classics) it's the unfussy, authentic antipasti, pizzas, pastas, secondo piattos and puds that steal the limelight. A simple starter of roasted mixed vegetables, crisp bruschetta, juicy chilli and oregano-marinated olives and soft buffalo mozzarella (not to mention a light and silky panacotta made with Madagascan vanilla pods) acts as a particularly good ambassador for the super-fresh, quality Italian fare now synonymous with the family name. In addition, a model wine list utilises award-winning Cruvinet technology to enable 24 wines to be offered by the glass, making sampling that '94 sassicaia you've always fancied an affordable reality. The downstairs deli and bar holds further treats for those whose budget is lamentably limited by time."

"This is the nearest thing you'll get to an Italian cafe," says Richard, as he settles down with an espresso. "The smell of the fresh coffee, the surroundings and the ambience are perfect."

"Perfect [espresso]. It is the right flavour and made with superior coffee beans. It's a classical Italian espresso made very well. The temperature is also right - all too often coffee houses make the mistake of making the espresso too hot. At £1.50 this is very good value for money."

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Richard Demarco compares Edinburgh coffee shops