Dear Mamma, How do I cook carciofi like you?

Dear Mamma,

I love eating artichokes, I think they are one of my favourite vegetables. Right now we are getting them delivered every Monday from the Milano markets, both Mammole and Romano... but Mum, how do I cook them? I want to learn how to make them like you do, they are so delicious!

Love Olivia xxx

Dear Olivia,

I first tasted Carciofi, artichokes, at your Nonna Carlo’s table when I was first married. She used to trim them, boil them whole in salted water and serve them with a French vinaigrette. Your Nonno used to love tearing off each leaf, scrapping the white flesh off at the bottom, and then, as was his want never the waste a thing, he would chew the course outer leaves until every morsel of flavour had been extracted before arranging the wasted, chewed stems tidily around the edge of his plate.

When I was in Naples staying with his mother, Bis-Nonna, (your great-grandmother) she used to trim the outer leaves, smash the head of the carciofo down on her chopping board to open out the leaves and scoop out the course choke with the back of a spoon. She would then stuff the head with chopped garlic, parsley, breadcrumbs and salt and steam them head down in a saucepan with a shallow covering of half extra virgin olive oil and water.

Of course, the freshness and tenderness of the carciofi bis-nonna were like night and day to the ones we could get in Edinburgh. The flesh was sweet, meltingly tender and so richly flavoured, packed with bitter flavours of minerals and iron. Now I knew where Nonno got his annoying chewing habit for, the texture was so sweet and delicious you couldn’t resist but suck every last delicious mouthful form each one.

The Roman Mammole Carciofi you have in the shop now are perhaps the easiest to prepare.

Get some rubber gloves, a bowl of iced water with a cut lemon in it and a small sharp knife.  

First trim the long stalk, leaving about 3-4 cm. Next work your way round the artichoke pulling off and discarding the course, spiky leaves until you start to revel the white core. Don’t be afraid to pull a lot off. There is a lot of waste. Use the sharp knife to trim away the green, course leaves left at the base, trim off the top spikes, again judging where you see the edible white core as your guide.



Now I cheat. I cut the core in half, and then quarters. Rub with the cut lemon to stop the skin discolouring and trim away the easily identifiable spike thistle- like core. Pop the prepared carciofo into the water and complete the rest.



That’s all the hard work done.

Drain the pieces and layer on a shallow saucepan. Cover with 4-5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and cold water. Season with 2-3 handfuls chopped flat leaf parsley, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves and a sprinkling of sea salt. Simmer uncovered for 15-20 minutes.



Amazing!

Easy when you know how.  

Love, Mamma x